When It Comes To Lobster, This Is How Cape May Rolls

A curious thing about the classic Maine lobster roll is that it most likely originated in Connecticut. The most repeated origin story places the birth of the roll at Perry’s restaurant in Milford, CT in the late 1920s. According to local lore, a traveling salesman asked owner Harry Perry for a lobster dinner he could eat on the road. Perry tucked warm meat and butter into bread, later upgrading to a sturdier roll. Perry’s then advertised itself as the Home of the Famous Lobster Roll, and Connecticut has claimed bragging rights ever since.

Around 40 years later, in 1966, Fred Terry began loading hot dog buns with cold lobster salad at his roadside clam shack in Amagansett, on New York's Long Island. He named the stand the Lobster Roll and helped popularize the chilled, mayonnaise-dressed version. Maine eventually made that style its own, while Connecticut stayed warm and buttery (my favorite version of the delicacy).

Today’s lobster fanaticism would have seemed strange during early American history. Along the New England coast, the crustaceans could be so plentiful — and so difficult to transport alive — that they had little value. They were eaten locally, canned, used as bait and, at times, spread on fields as fertilizer.

In his famous 2004 Gourmet magazine essay “Consider the Lobster,” the late, great author David Foster Wallace captured the animal’s image problem, calling lobsters “garbagemen of the sea” and “giant sea insects.” He also repeated the irresistible story that some colonies barred prisons from serving lobster more than once a week because it was cruel and unusual. There is only one problem: Food historians have looked for those laws and can’t find them. The story appears to have migrated from older legends about salmon. So, yes, lobster was once cheap and abundant in some coastal communities. But no, humane jailers were not legally required to alternate it with filet mignon. Lobster history, like lobster dinner, benefits from a pinch of salt.

What truly elevated the creature was infrastructure. Nineteenth-century canneries created a wider market, while live-well boats, rail lines and eventually refrigeration carried lobsters to distant cities in edible condition. By the 20th century, the bottom-dwelling bug had pulled off perhaps the most successful food rebrand in American history.

Maine remains the capital. In 2024, US fishermen landed approximately 112.6 million pounds of American lobster worth about $617 million at the dock. Maine and Massachusetts together account for roughly 93 percent of that harvest. The Northeast is not merely king; it owns the castle, the moat and most of the bibs.

The American lobster’s natural range stretches from Labrador to Cape Hatteras, North Carolina. The crustaceans are most abundant from Maine through New Jersey, and they occur offshore all the way down the Mid-Atlantic. So why is this not storied lobster country? Three reasons: temperature, bottom and distance.

Lobsters are cold-water creatures and actively avoid water above about 64F — the poor little critters become physiologically stressed above about 68F. Maine offers cold, rocky and cobbled nearshore bottoms. The shallow Mid-Atlantic shelf off New Jersey is largely sand — excellent real estate for a surf clam or a sea scallop, less so for a young lobster desperate for a crack to hide in. Wrecks and artificial reefs provide shelter, but as islands rather than a continuous lobster suburb.

The colder, more dependable habitat lies far offshore, around the outer shelf and submarine canyons. “Far” is not a figure of speech — a canyon is a long gash, not a single pin, so we used the nearest point in NOAA’s canyon-protection boundary. From Cape May Inlet, Baltimore Canyon’s near edge is approximately 65 nautical miles. Wilmington Canyon is 68 nautical miles, while Spencer is 82 nautical miles.

So, if you are picturing a lobsterman in a yellow slicker rowing a few pots beyond the Cape May surf, adjust the mental image. Off Cape May, lobsters are patchier, the best habitat is over the horizon, and trips are longer and costlier.

Commercially, the Mid-Atlantic is a small, struggling cousin to Maine when it comes to lobstah. When it comes to scallops, that’s a very different story. Only New Bedford, Massachusetts lands more sea scallops than our little island.

But let’s get back to lobsters. In recent times, the classic Maine or Connecticut versions have been given some serious window dressing by chefs — think curry aioli toppings, black buns, poke-inspired fillings, avocado and enough culinary freelancing to give a Maine lobsterman the vapors. My own favorite lobster roll was a curried version from a food truck at Portland Head Lighthouse.

Here in Cape May, there are lots of good places to get your lobstah fix, though I don’t think anyone is serving up curry aioli...

Restaurant Ingredients Pairs Best With Where
The Blue Pig Tavern Maine lobster, split-top brioche bun, citrus-tarragon aioli, fries or salad. “It captures everything we love about coastal dining. It’s light, refreshing and full of flavor, perfectly balanced with our buttery brioche rolls. We use the freshest knuckle and claw lobster meat tossed in our housemade citrus and tarragon aioli, then garnished with fresh chives and a lemon wedge. It’s only available in the spring and summer,” says Congress Hall Executive Chef John Zaitoun. Jordan Chardonnay. 200 Congress Place, Cape May, 609-884-8422
Cape May Fish Market Chunks of lobster sautéed in butter on a toasted split-top bun lightly dusted with sea salt. Served with French fries and coleslaw. “We make it fresh every single day — sometimes four or five times,” says chef/manager Gary Romberger. “It’s easy to get frozen lobster, but we take the time to do more. We serve it on a toasted New England roll that we coat in butter and salt.” Any bottle of Hawk Haven wine. 408 Washington Street, Cape May, 609-770-3790
The Fish House Fresh chilled lobster tossed in brown butter mayo, with fresh chives, on a toasted split-top roll with crispy fries. “The brown butter mayo adds a rich flavor while the fresh chives keep everything bright and balanced. It’s simple, fresh, and lets the quality of the lobster speak for itself,” says kitchen manager Joe Fenton. The Sunset Spritz. 502 Sunset Boulevard, Cape May, 609-629-3654
Harpoons On The Bay Lobster, mayo, celery, parsley and a squeeze of lemon on a toasted New England roll. Served with housemade chips. “It’s a truly authentic, Maine-style lobster roll,” says managing partner Brady Schoenrock. “Growing up, I spent my summers in Maine, and my family was in the commercial lobster business. I even worked on a lobster boat for some time. I consider it one of the most authentic lobster rolls you’ll find in Cape May — we use knuckle, claw and tail meat for the perfect taste and texture.” Obscura Brewing Company’s Local Exposure Pilsner or a glass of Saget La Petite Perrière Sauvignon Blanc. 91 Beach Drive, North Cape May, 609-886-5529
Harry’s Ocean Bar & Grille Chilled lobster meat with light mayo and lemon, served in a buttery toasted roll with housemade chips. “It’s overflowing with chilled lobster meat lightly dressed with mayonnaise and lemon. Nestled in a buttery toasted roll and served with housemade chips, it’s a guest favorite that delivers generous portions and fresh coastal flavor in every bite,” says Aspasia Bournousouzis, VP of Food & Beverage. Any flavor of Harry’s famous crushes or spritzes. 1025 Beach Avenue, Cape May, 609-884-2779
Port Marina Fresh lobster served your way — either with warm butter or classic style, on a toasted split-top roll with a side of crispy fries. Add caviar for an elevated touch. “For an extra indulgence, you can add caviar — it’s a simple upgrade that makes it feel even more special. This is available on the outdoor deck menu,” says Chef Marlon Medina. Hampton Water Rosé or a Leinenkugel Summer Shandy. 954 Ocean Drive, Cape May, 609-849-5188
Quincy’s Original Lobster Rolls For the Classic, chilled lobster, light bead of mayo, lemon butter and seasoning on a New England-style buttered, toasted roll. For Connecticut, warm lobster, dunked in butter, seasoned and served on a New England-style buttered, toasted roll. Served with Cape Cod chips and pickle slices. “Great lobster rolls have always been at the heart of what we do. We’re honored that through the years Quincy’s has become a Jersey Shore tradition for so many people,” says Quincy’s founder Jeremy McCann. French fries with malt vinegar — and an ice-cold root beer. 709 Beach Avenue, Cape May, 609-600-3571 and 320 Washington Street, Cape May, 609-305-4379
Schooner At Lobster House Fresh lobster salad served on a soft roll with French fries and coleslaw. “Our lobster salad roll is made fresh daily with the highest quality lobster meat,” says Raw Bar manager, Zach Dunbar. “It’s all packed onto a soft roll and comes with French fries and coleslaw so it’s both filling and delicious. It’s definitely one of the Lobster House best-sellers for a quick lunch or dinner.” The Orange Crush, fresh-squeezed for each drink. 906 Schellengers Landing Road, Cape May, 609-884-8296
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